庫頁島樺太鐵路紀實(1)出發「更遠東」!吃喝玩樂+旅遊資訊
![庫頁島樺太鐵路紀實(1)出發「更遠東」!吃喝玩樂+旅遊資訊](https://i0.wp.com/www.eggstudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/dsc04731.jpg?resize=1200%2C589&ssl=1)
俄羅斯遠東城市海參崴後,再往「更遠東」的庫頁島遊玩。
庫頁島很冷門
大部分人聽都未聽過,其實一打開世界地圖,看看俄羅斯東面、日本北海道之上有一個巨大島嶼,差不多是樓下日本本州的大小。
![庫頁島樺太鐵路紀實(1)出發「更遠東」!吃喝玩樂+旅遊資訊](https://i0.wp.com/www.eggstudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/dsc05084.jpg?resize=1200%2C675&ssl=1)
庫頁島很大
儘管有天然好風光及豐富礦產,旅遊業不算發達,人口亦越來越少,從十幾年前六十萬,減至現在四十萬 — 一個日本本州大小的島嶼,人口比沙田區更少,難怪普京說要起大橋連接俄羅斯本土。
庫頁島旅遊非常冷門
除了自然好風光外,還有甚麼?這次旅程大部分時間是看日治時期和蘇聯時代的遺蹟,例如 Aniva 燈塔、蘇製戰鬥機……還有樺太鐵路。
![庫頁島樺太鐵路紀實(1)出發「更遠東」!吃喝玩樂+旅遊資訊](https://i0.wp.com/www.eggstudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/dsc05050.jpg?resize=1200%2C675&ssl=1)
樺太鐵路
庫頁島於一八六零年被清廷割讓給俄羅斯,俄羅斯卻輸掉一九零四年的日俄戰爭,於是日本佔領庫頁島南部,開始長達接近半個世紀的日治年代,期間樺太政府修建了樺太鐵路。
![製紙廠的成品及原料以鐵路運輸。](https://i0.wp.com/www.eggstudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/dsc05018.jpg?resize=1025%2C577&ssl=1)
![](https://i0.wp.com/www.eggstudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/dsc04962.jpg?resize=1025%2C577&ssl=1)
探索鐵路之前,先看看吃喝玩樂。
庫頁島屬俄羅斯,因此入境、貨幣、電壓、插頭等與海參崴相同,除以下資料外,其餘不作重覆,請參考海參崴篇:
- 機場有銀聯、VISA 及 Master 提款機,而絕大部分商店及酒店都接受銀聯、VISA 及 Master 付款。
- 夏天是最好的旅遊季節,因為日照很長。六月的日落時間是約九點半,有足夠的日光時間玩樂。
- 首府南薩哈林斯克(Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk / 日治時期稱「豐原」)有很多超級市場和銀行,一條街有幾間,感覺上與人口不成比例。
交通
庫頁島有很多小鎮和無數村落, 人口及商業最集中是「大鎮」南薩哈林斯克,距離機場大約十五分鐘車程,與南部港口城鎮科沙可夫(Korsakovsky)約半小時車程。
巴士、鐵路和的士是島上主要交通工具,由於要尋找樺太鐵路和舊蘇聯遺蹟,我選擇自駕遊。
自駕遊
島上有幾間租車公司,不過,與俄羅斯大部分地區一樣,從網上是租不到車的,必須抵埗後以電話聯絡,不懂俄文可請酒店幫忙(租車公司有網站及網上表格,但填完不會有回覆或結果)。
![](https://i0.wp.com/www.eggstudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_20190613_180159.jpg?resize=1025%2C577&ssl=1)
![](https://i0.wp.com/www.eggstudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_20190611_103000_hdr.jpg?resize=1025%2C577&ssl=1)
北部是土路,所以大部分租車合約只容許在庫頁島南部駕駛,儘管如此,幾天下來也遇到不少需要四輪驅動的路況,特別是前往 Devil’s Bridge 和 Cape Slepikovskogo 燈塔的越野路。
![庫頁島樺太鐵路紀實(1)出發「更遠東」!吃喝玩樂+旅遊資訊](https://i0.wp.com/www.eggstudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/dsc05114.jpg?resize=1200%2C675&ssl=1)
順帶一提,細小城鄉的酒店也不會處理經網上的預訂或查詢,甚至沒有從酒店預訂網站出現。
上網
在海參崴、波蘭和烏克蘭遊記裏已幾次提及,避免買鴨記上網卡,幫趁國內上網卡店最穩陣,原因請爬舊文。
縱使庫頁島速度不錯的 4G,不過只限城鎮,離開城鎮後沒有網絡,包括公路、鐵路,甚至旅遊景點 Devil’s 及 Witch’s Bridge 等都沒有網絡,因此必須準備離線導航軟件。
當地人英語水平不高,不會像大部分海參崴人般能操流利英語及普通話,因此,也要準備離線翻譯軟件。
![庫頁島樺太鐵路紀實(1)出發「更遠東」!吃喝玩樂+旅遊資訊](https://i0.wp.com/www.eggstudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/dsc05097.jpg?resize=1200%2C675&ssl=1)
食
看看下面的照片,不是東瀛遊 — 庫頁島被日治半世紀,現在又有不少韓國人後裔居住和工作,因此庫頁島的地道食物就是日本和韓國菜,及日韓俄 fusion。
在海參崴篇已提及,戰鬥民族和日寇在同一片海洋捕魚,結果立竹見影,加上生活指數低,蟹和海產比「大城市」海參崴更平。
戰鬥民族
![](https://i0.wp.com/www.eggstudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/blogo.png?resize=56%2C25&ssl=1)
那麼俄羅斯菜呢?問了幾個當地人,答案與海參崴篇時一樣:俄羅斯菜同樣不受當地人推薦。
![本地人街市,除了菜和肉外,還有蜜糖、海產等。](https://i0.wp.com/www.eggstudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_20190615_120812.jpg?resize=1025%2C577&ssl=1)
![](https://i0.wp.com/www.eggstudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_20190615_120941.jpg?resize=1025%2C577&ssl=1)
![街市裏的肉檔。](https://i0.wp.com/www.eggstudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_20190615_121005.jpg?resize=1025%2C577&ssl=1)
![帝王蟹必食!即食的約二百港元一隻。](https://i0.wp.com/www.eggstudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_20190610_142425.jpg?resize=1025%2C577&ssl=1)
![生蟹點賣?自己計計匯率。](https://i0.wp.com/www.eggstudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_20190610_144620.jpg?resize=1025%2C577&ssl=1)
![拆肉巨型大蟹腳!](https://i0.wp.com/www.eggstudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_20190610_143703.jpg?resize=1025%2C577&ssl=1)
![新鮮三文魚籽和海膽,自己算算價錢吧!](https://i0.wp.com/www.eggstudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_20190610_142346.jpg?resize=1025%2C577&ssl=1)
![各種處理好的海產。](https://i0.wp.com/www.eggstudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_20190610_142129.jpg?resize=1025%2C577&ssl=1)
![由於帝王蟹太平,所以很多菜式都以蟹腳肉烹調。](https://i0.wp.com/www.eggstudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_20190608_182955.jpg?resize=1025%2C611&ssl=1)
![蟹腳肉壽司。](https://i0.wp.com/www.eggstudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_20190614_212623.jpg?resize=1025%2C577&ssl=1)
![俄羅斯菜也有以蟹腳肉做的菜式。](https://i0.wp.com/www.eggstudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_20190610_205318.jpg?resize=1025%2C577&ssl=1)
![又是蟹腳肉……焗蟹腳!](https://i0.wp.com/www.eggstudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_20190609_193722.jpg?resize=1025%2C577&ssl=1)
![也有其他海鮮。](https://i0.wp.com/www.eggstudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_20190611_205241.jpg?resize=1025%2C577&ssl=1)
![煙肉帶子卷。](https://i0.wp.com/www.eggstudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_20190609_194202.jpg?resize=1025%2C577&ssl=1)
![](https://i0.wp.com/www.eggstudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_20190609_192542.jpg?resize=1025%2C937&ssl=1)
![日本菜已成為當地飲食。](https://i0.wp.com/www.eggstudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_20190609_193249.jpg?resize=1025%2C680&ssl=1)
![](https://i0.wp.com/www.eggstudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_20190614_214028.jpg?resize=1025%2C577&ssl=1)
![光顧早餐的餐廳。](https://i0.wp.com/www.eggstudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_20190612_085025.jpg?resize=1025%2C577&ssl=1)
![早餐有乜食?](https://i0.wp.com/www.eggstudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_20190612_083804.jpg?resize=1025%2C609&ssl=1)
![當地流行一款豬扒蛋。](https://i0.wp.com/www.eggstudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_20190612_085049.jpg?resize=1025%2C577&ssl=1)
![糯米血腸。](https://i0.wp.com/www.eggstudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_20190611_210211.jpg?resize=1025%2C577&ssl=1)
![看看一間當地著名的俄羅斯餐廳。](https://i0.wp.com/www.eggstudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_20190610_135018.jpg?resize=1025%2C577&ssl=1)
![傳統俄羅斯菜。](https://i0.wp.com/www.eggstudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_20190610_125252.jpg?resize=1025%2C577&ssl=1)
![蟹肉沙律。](https://i0.wp.com/www.eggstudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_20190610_131436-e1561127729168-1025x865.jpg?resize=1025%2C865&ssl=1)
![又有豬扒蛋。](https://i0.wp.com/www.eggstudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_20190611_211332.jpg?resize=1025%2C577&ssl=1)
![](https://i0.wp.com/www.eggstudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_20190610_205324_hht.jpg?resize=1025%2C577&ssl=1)
![還有翻譯作「潛望鏡」的蛋糕杯。](https://i0.wp.com/www.eggstudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_20190610_131524.jpg?resize=577%2C1025&ssl=1)
![最後看看俄羅斯的西餅店……](https://i0.wp.com/www.eggstudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_20190614_101309.jpg?resize=1025%2C577&ssl=1)
![](https://i0.wp.com/www.eggstudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/dsc05131.jpg?resize=1025%2C577&ssl=1)
![](https://i0.wp.com/www.eggstudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/dsc05132.jpg?resize=1025%2C577&ssl=1)
![](https://i0.wp.com/www.eggstudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_20190614_092037.jpg?resize=1025%2C577&ssl=1)
![](https://i0.wp.com/www.eggstudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_20190614_145252.jpg?resize=1025%2C577&ssl=1)
![最後,之前在烏克蘭試了不錯的格魯吉亞拔蘭地,在庫頁島竟找到 V.S.O.P.版本。](https://i0.wp.com/www.eggstudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_20190614_161438.jpg?resize=638%2C1025&ssl=1)
睇多啲